A NEW LOOK FOR THE NEW YEAR:
We have some exciting news to announce as we enter our winter season. We are currently making arrangements to expand our Fallbrook store operation. We will remain in our present location, but we will now occupy the entire building, adding an additional 3,000+ square feet to our facility. This will result in a number of improvements that we want to share with you before we begin. Of course, there will be changes as we go through the process and we will do everything we can to make the transition as smooth as possible.

(Read more about Fallbrook’s New Look for the New Year.)

GARDENING UPDATE:

PESTS: The weather has been exceptionally warm the past month. As wonderful as that may be for your favorite garden activities, be mindful that it is also great weather for pests. Normally we would have little concern with aphids and whitefly in this season, but they’re back (if they ever left). So be observant and plan to respond quickly if you spot an infestation. A quick treatment and a follow-up application of your chosen product can save you from a bigger problem when the bugs are ignored. We’ll be glad to recommend several options for you, depending on what you need to treat.

(Read more about Fallbrook’s Gardening Update.)

By Tamara Galbraith

The All-America Rose Selections seem to get more beautiful every year, don't they? And the 2007 winner "Strike It Rich" will post big returns on your investment.

Which is just stuffy stock talk for: you'll really love this rose and it will last a long time. "Strike It Rich" - bred from the 1950 AARS award-winner "Sutter's Gold" - is a vibrant yellow/orange grandiflora with ruby red swirls on the outer bloom petals and unusual red stems on the entire plant.

"Strike It Rich" is described by the AARS as having a "strong, sweet spice and fruit" fragrance, making it sound more like a cantaloupe, but the appearance is all rose: upright, bushy and, like all AARS winners, highly disease resistant.

"Strike It Rich" was introduced by hybridizing guru Tom Carruth, and is hardy to US Zone 5, or even Zone 4, with some winter protection. Like a treasure chest full of gold medallions, "Stike It Rich" will bring priceless shine to your garden.

Roses must be pruned every year to maintain vigorous growth and to keep them flowering well. The best time to prune is while they are dormant.

Steps in pruning your roses:

• Think about each cut before you make it. All cuts should be at an angle and just above a bud that is facing away from the center of the bush.
• Remove dead branches and canes.
• Remove old canes that produce only twiggy growth. If your bush is old and has only these old canes, save three or four and cut those back to 3 feet.
• The height to cut your canes back depends on the type of flowers you want. If you want the long stems for cutting, cut your canes back to 3 feet. If you want profuse flowers, but you're not concerned about stem length, cut the canes back one third.
• Remove all branches that are thinner than a pencil.
• Pull off all remaining leaves, rake up all debris, and put it in the trash. Do not use this for your compost pile, as there may be overwintering insects and/or diseases.
• Spray the pruned bush with dormant oil spray.

• Choose and plant sasanqua camellias and early long-blooming azaleas.
• Purchase poinsettias early in the month.
• Continue to plant winter vegetables.
• Cut off flower spikes that have bloomed from dwarf foxgloves and delphiniums.
• Don't prune tropicals.
• Prune grapes, low-chill raspberries, and native plants.
• Prune wisteria by cutting off unwanted long twiners. Prune roots of vines that fail to bloom.
• Mow cool-season lawns, including bermuda that's overseeded with winter ryegrass.
• Do not mow warm season lawns, except St. Augustine (if it continues to grow).
• Continue fertilizing cymbidiums until flowers open.
• Feed cool season flowers with a complete fertilizer for growth and bloom.
• Feed shade plants for bloom; give adequate light.
• Feed cool-season lawns, but don't feed warm season lawns (except for bermuda that's overseeded with winter ryegrass).
• Don't water succulents growing in the ground.
• Keep cymbidiums damp but not soggy.
• Remember to keep all bulbs, especially potted ones, well watered.
• Water dichondra if rains aren't adequate; water St. Augustine grass if it continues to grow.
• Turn off the irrigation systems of all other types of warm-season lawns once they have gone brown.
• Spray peach and apricot trees for peach leaf curl if you didn't do so in November.
• Protect cymbidiums' bloom spikes from snails.
• Control rust on cool-season lawns by fertilizing and mowing them.
• Control aphids with insecticidal soap and beneficial insects.
• Prepare beds for planting bare-root roses next month.
• Harvest winter vegetables as soon as they mature.

by Tamara Galbraith

During the winter months, when there isn't much to do except stare out the window or peruse seed catalogs, gardeners need to be on the lookout for a couple of tough pests that, once settled in, can be hard to control.

Fungus gnats, the near-microscopic flying insects that feed and breed within damp organic matter in potting soil, can actually be a problem any time of year. These tiny flying pests can spread pathogens, chew on roots and be a general nuisance. Fungus gnats' favorite hangout is the fungus existing in moist, organic soil, so the best way to battle these bugs is by letting your houseplants dry in between waterings. However, some overwintering houseplants — like those lovely amaryllis bulbs many of us are forcing during the holidays — like to remain somewhat moist. So...what to do?

A good drench of Neem oil through the soil is a good start, and a layer of sand on top of the potting soil works even better. This prevents the fungus gnats from reaching and subsequently laying eggs in the potting soil, but still allows moisture to reach the roots.

On the opposite end of the spectrum, spider mites can become a terrible problem for indoor plants when conditions are too dry, which is often the case during cold winter days when most of us are keeping toasty. If you notice a plant's leaves shrivelling and dropping, or webbing in between stems and leaves, you've probably got a spider mite problem. Again, Neem oil is an extremely effective solution, and its low toxicity makes it safe to use around the house. The mites can be killed with several sprays of Neem. However, the humidity around the affected plant will need to be addressed to keep mites from returning:

• Keep plants away from the hot blast of furnace output vents.
• Spray sensitive indoor plants with water daily if possible.
• Move all sensitive plants together and run a humidifier near them to keep air moisture levels high.

Although many cymbidiums start to flower in December, some bloom as early as November. Most bloom between February and May, a few in May and June, and just one or two bloom year round. Choose wisely, and you can have these exotic orchids decorating your home, patio, and garden for six months or more. Protect cymbidiums' bloom spikes from snails when they are outside. Stake the spike to avoid breakage, but allow each spray to maintain its natural arching form. Allow miniatures in hanging baskets to cascade naturally. Continue to feed the plants for bloom with a fertilizer rich in bloom ingredients like Grow More Orchid Food until buds open. Once they bloom stop feeding the plants; keep them damp but not soggy. For longer-lasting flowers, move blooming plants into more shade and keep away from bees if they are outside. (The flowers "blush" and fade after pollination.)

Once cymbidium spikes have set buds you can force some into bloom for holiday decoration ahead of their natural schedule. Wait until the buds on the bloom spikes are full size and look fat and ready to open. Then place the plant in a warm area with bright light. The warmth plus the longer 'day' will open the buds quickly. Move back into a lower-light area for longer lasting blooms.

There's one drawback to forcing - plants you force into bloom early won't perform as well next year. You'll get a few spikes but not as many. This is also a factor to consider when buying new varieties. Some may have been forced into bloom, and you won't get as many spikes the following year. Wait for the third year and they'll be loaded with blooms.

December 12 is National Poinsettia Day, designated by Congress to honor the flower and Joel Robert Poinsett, botanist and the first United States Ambassador to México. Native to México, the poinsettia, with over 70 million sold annually, is the "Número Uno" flowering potted plant sold in the United States.

History of Poinsettias

The Aztecs called poinsettias "Cuetlaxochitl." During the 14th-16th century the sap was used to control fevers and the bracts ( modified leaves) were used to make a reddish dye.

Montezuma, the last of the Aztec kings, would have poinsettias brought into what now is México City by caravan because they could not be grown in the high altitude.

Centuries later, Joel Roberts Poinsett became the first United States Ambassador to México, being appointed by President Andrew Jackson in the 1820's; because of his interest in botany he introduced the American elm into México. During his stay in México he wandered the countryside looking for new plant species.

In 1828 he found a "beautiful" shrub with large red flowers growing next to a road. He took cuttings from the plant and brought them back to his greenhouse in South Carolina.

Even though Poinsett had an outstanding career as a United States Congressman and as an Ambassador, he will be best remembered for introducing the poinsettia into the United States.

Choosing a Tree:

Living trees are becoming more popular each year. Many people don't like the idea of either a cut tree or an artificial tree. A living tree that can be planted after the holidays is a great choice for many people.

When choosing a living tree, be sure to choose one that will grow well for you. Keep in mind your own soil conditions and the area where you will be planting the tree. Ask us and we'll help you find one that will thrive for you!

Caring for a Live Tree:

Move the tree inside gradually to acclimate it to the warmer indoor air. While it is acclimating, spray it with an anti-dessicant spray to help slow water loss.

Water it often enough (indoors or out) to keep the roots moist but not soggy — root-rot will harm a tree as much as letting it get dried out. Try using ice cubes when your tree needs water; they melt slowly and you will reduce the chance of having a carpet soiled because of water overflow.

Before putting the tree inside, brush it off to get rid of any dead needles and dirt.

Place the tree, if potted, on a saucer or put it in a galvanized bucket or other container to keep water from getting on the floor.

Try to display the tree in a cooler part of a room, away from heat and dryness sources such as direct sunlight or vents.

A living tree should not be kept inside much longer than a week, so try to watch your timing. While it is inside it will probably need a bit more water, so check it regularly.

When you move it back outside, re-acclimate it to the outdoors by repeating the entry acclimation in reverse.

By Tamara Galbraith

Celebrating the holidays surrounded by beloved children and pets always makes this time of year sweeter. But the little darlings sure can get into trouble when your back is turned, eh?

And that's why it's important to be aware of the plants you've got decorating your holiday setting each and every year. Little fingers like reaching for bright red berries, and curious puppies and kitties can eat anything and everything in sight, leaves and all. So let's run down a few popular holiday plant choices and what you should watch out for:

Poinsettias: For many years, this popular beauty was thought to be extremely toxic. However, recent studies have shown that, while ingestion certainly isn't recommended, eating the leaves won't cause instant death either. Keep it out of reach from curious kids and pets, and be careful when handling it yourself; the sap can cause a poison ivy-like reaction on the skin.

Holly: The greatest danger isn't the pointy-sharp leaves (although those are a nuisance), it's eating the bright red berries, which can result in extreme stomach and intestinal problems.

Amaryllis, Kalanchoe: Somewhat toxic, but large amounts would have to be eaten for real trouble to occur.

Jerusalem Cherry, Pyracantha, Bittersweet, Helleborus niger, Mistletoe, Laurel, Yew: All are highly toxic (especially the berries, when present) and should definitely be kept well away from children and pets.

Be smart about other plants too, or at least, where you have them positioned. Toddlers with a penchant for trouble can eat potting soil containing toxic fertilizer, or pebbles just big enough to be choked on. Don't put heavy plants where they could potentially fall on a child or pet. Watch out for dangling vines that kids or pets can pull on or get tangled in during a rambunctious moment...and you know the holidays bring plenty of those.

Best wishes to you and your family during this holiday season. May your home be filled with loved ones and your hearts with good cheer. And may all your weeds turn out to be wildflowers.

A number of plants can be pruned this month, but don't prune such tender or tropical plants as bougainvillea, hibiscus, eugenia, philodendron, Natal plum, or lantana. Pruning tropicals now will stimulate growth that could be nipped by frost. Plants that can be pruned now include deciduous fruit trees, low-chill raspberries, grapes, native plants, and wisteria.

Mistletoe, in older times, was believed to have protective properties and was hung to ward off evil spirits. Celts believed that mistletoe, a parasitic plant that grows on trees, had special powers that could heal diseases, make poisons harmless, protect against evil spells and bring fertility to childless women. For many years, Christian places of worship did not allow it inside because of its pagan associations. But nowadays it is mostly used as an excuse to steal a kiss.

The origin of our tradition of kissing under the mistletoe is lost in the mists of antiquity. Some say it probably stemmed from the Druids, who considered it sacred, and would declare a truce in an area where it grew.

Others say the custom comes from the old festival of Saturnalia, and still others claim it comes from old Norse mythology and the tale of Baldur's death from a twig of mistletoe. Legend has it that the tears of his mother, Frigga, changed the berries of the mistletoe from red to white.

Whatever the origin of the tradition, most consider it a good deal of light-hearted fun to steal a kiss under the mistletoe. Just be careful who you kiss — a jealous spouse may be lurking.

Despite its use as a holiday decoration and its association with love, peace, and stolen kisses, mistletoe is actually a parasite. It lives on trees and shrubs, tapping into the plant's nutrients by sending its roots under the bark. Mistletoe can weaken, or even kill, a plant. It is also poisonous (all parts), so keep it out of the reach of children and pets!