Care for Deciduous Fruit Trees:

Once deciduous fruit trees have gone dormant and dropped their leaves, they can be pruned. You can do this job now or wait until next month. Every type of deciduous fruit tree needs different treatment. Consult multiple books to get the most comprehensive approach, or consult your local nurseryperson for proper pruning methods. Follow up your pruning with dormant spray. Dormant spray is best used more than once, so even if you don't prune this month it's wise to use dormant spray now on all deciduous fruit trees and the many ornamental trees that drop their leaves in winter.

Grapes:

Prune grapes this month. There are three major pruning methods depending on the type grown. Young plants of each type must be pruned differently from those that are mature.

Save trimmings to make ornamental wreaths and baskets. Start a wreath by wiring one bendy stem into a circle, then wind others around it. Add ribbons, dried flowers, and berries, and use the wreath in Christmas decorations.

Low-chill Raspberries:

With the introduction of "subtropical" raspberries, Southern Californians can enjoy this normally cold-weather berry. These relatively new low-chill raspberries are now grown commercially as well as in home gardens. They require different and much easier pruning than other types of cane berries.

All low-chill raspberry varieties bear their berries almost year-round on new wood that they put out almost continually. The simple pruning method for all low-chill types of raspberry is to cut all the canes down to 3 or 4 inches, now or in January. New growth will spring from the ground. Dig up the suckers to form new rows of plants; if you let your existing rows get too wide they'll become unmanageable.

Fertilize your raspberries in spring when they start to grow, with an evenly balanced fertilizer such as 16-16-16, and give them plenty of water. Spray them regularly for caterpillars; they love raspberry leaves. (If you didn't prune other cane berries like blackberries, boysenberries, and loganberries last month, prune them this month.)

Native Plants:

Native plants can be pruned any time during the winter growing season. Some gardeners prefer not to prune them at all except to remove dead and diseased branches. Other gardeners prune to show the "good bones" of certain plants. A little judicious pruning can often uncover an artistic shape that's already there but hidden by foliage.

Wisteria:

If you didn't prune wisteria in summer, do it now. Observe the buds. Small, narrow buds are leaf buds. Round, fatter buds, often found on short stubby growth called spurs, are flower buds. Don't cut off the flower buds or flower-bearing spurs. Prune off long "streamers" or "twiners" (thin, young stems that grew rapidly this year). Carefully untangle them from older wood if necessary and cut them back to two or three buds to stimulate the growth of more flower spurs. Retain twiners going in desired directions and tie them loosely in place.

If an established wisteria never blooms, cut into the ground around the plant with a sharp spade to prune the roots. This may stimulate bloom, perhaps not next spring, but the following year.