Care for houseplants: Clean foliage, water regularly and fertilize. Repot as necessary. Click here for complete instructions. Spray with Bayer Advanced™ Dual Action Rose & Flower Insect Killer Ready-To-Use before moving indoors. Bring houseplants back indoors before temperatures drop into the 50s. Fertilize now before winter conditions arrive and growth slows.

Care for roses: Feed and protect from insects and disease with Bayer Advanced™ All-In-One Rose & Flower Care Concentrate. If you have spider mites, use Bayer Advanced™ 2-in-1 Systemic Rose & Flower Care Granules. This systemic product controls numerous insect pests and mites while feeding your roses. Remove faded flowers, cutting back to the first leaf with five leaflets. Roses, such as floribundas and shrubs, which bloom in clusters, can be lightly sheared after blooms fade.

Control indoor/outdoor pests: To control insects like spiders, fleas and ants, use Bayer Advanced™ Home Pest Control

	Control lawn pests: Apply Bayer Advanced™ Complete Insect Killer For Soil & Turf Ready-To-Spray to control white grubs Control mosquitoes: West Nile Virus could be a serious problem. Control slugs and snails: Protect flowers, vegetables and other tender plants with Organic Sluggo Plus. Control weeds: Garden weeds are easiest to control when young. Hoe weeds or pull by hand. When out of control use
Fertilize: Keep landscape plants healthy and vigorous, and flowers blooming. Use Best Triple 15 as an all purpose fertilizer. For specialty plants; Grangetto’s carries a full line of Dr. Earth, Miracle Gro, Scotts, Bayer and other fertilizers. Fertilize lawns: This is one of the most important times of the year to feed cool-season lawns like Kentucky bluegrass and fescues. Use Best Nitra king 21-4-4. Mow: Lawns are growing vigorously. Mow weekly. Set your mower height at the upper end of the mowing range to help develop deeper roots and heat tolerance. Be sure to sharpen the blades and tune up the lawn mower for peak efficiency.   Plant: Start cool-season lawns like tall fescues. Overseed Bermuda grass lawns with ryegrass or tall fescue to keep them green all winter. Try Grangetto’s Tall Fescue Grass Seed. Plant flowers: Plant cool-season annuals like sweet peas, pansies, violas and primrose for fall bloom. You can also start late-blooming perennials like asters, salvias and mums, and spring-blooming perennials like iberis. And don’t forget spring bulbs, such as daffodils and tulips. Dig, divide or plant peonies. Divide perennials, especially spring bloomers. Remove seed heads from perennials to prevent reseeding in the garden. Dig  gladiolus as foliage begins to yellow and air dry before storing for winter.  Plant trees and shrubs –Autumn is the best time of year for new landscaping. The coming cooler weather will ease establishment and make sure plants get off  to a strong start next spring.  Plant new trees and shrubs, including roses from containers. Amend soil with Kellogg Gardner & Bloome Soil Building Compost. Protect new plantings from insects with Bayer Advanced™ Tree & Shrub Insect Control Concentrate. Water carefully. Rake up fallen leaves and compost. Prune broken and dead branches from trees. We carry a full line of pruners. Avoid pruning spring-flowering shrubs such as lilac and forsythia to  ensure spring flowers. Handpick bagworms to reduce next year's problem.   Plant vegetables and herbs: Plant cool-season vegetables, such as lettuce, broccoli, chard and cabbage. Also plant hardy herbs such oregano, parsley, rosemary and thyme. We carry seeds! Water regularly until plants are established. Clean up garden areas to reduce insects and disease as plants dieback for winter.

The sage (Salvia) family is one of the most adaptable, dependable and beautiful species of perennials for home gardens. Sage are closely related to the mint family and can be grown as herbs and ornamental plants. They can be found naturally in almost every country in the world.

In addition to the natural beauty of sage, many also have a medicinal attribute to them. (The name "salvia" comes from the Latin word "salvare," meaning "to heal.") Indeed, many varieties are highly regarded for their healing qualities. The ancient Greeks used it to treat ulcers and snake bites.

The Romans considered sage a sacred herb and followed an elaborate ceremony when harvesting it. They also used sage for toothpaste, and believed it to be good for the mind and senses.

More important today, however, is the beauty that sage can add to your home landscape. Most flowering varieties bloom reliably from spring through fall and come in a vast array of colors. They require very little maintenance, have only moderate water and fertilizer requirements and have virtually no pest problems.

Sage plants also attract plenty of wildlife--including hummingbirds, butterflies and many beneficial insects--to the garden.

The pesky little insect has ruined countless hikes, BBQ's and campouts. This vector has literally killed millions of people throughout history, and still affects millions around the world today. As daunting as this sounds, there are steps you can take to co-exist and stay healthy.

What attracts the mosquito? After 30 million years of evolution, the mosquito has perfected its hunting skills. The mosquito uses three sensors to attract its prey:

• Chemical sensors: Mosquitoes sense carbon dioxide and lactic acid up to 100 feet away. Unfortunately, we give off these gases as part of our normal breathing.
• Visual sensors: Clothing that contrasts with the background enables the mosquito to "zero in" on you.
• Heat sensors: Mosquitoes detect heat, so they can find warm-blooded mammals very easily.

To control mosquitoes in ponds or standing water use Mosquito Dunks. Be sure to eliminate unnecessary standing water around your home. A mosquito can lay up to 250 eggs at one time in still water, and they can hatch as fast as 7 days. Check your gutters frequently for collected water (especially if they sag and aren't level), along with birdbaths, buckets or boggy areas of the garden.

Burning citronella candles, using an electronic bug zapper, or spraying surfaces near entertainment areas with a mosquito barrier spray will also help kill, or at least repel, mosquitoes.

The West Nile Virus was first introduced in the U.S. in 1999. It has since spread to almost every state, with over 3,000 cases in 2006. Diligence is your best protection. Stay indoors at dawn and dusk hours, wear pants and long-sleeves shirts if possible, avoid any standing water, and repair broken screens.

Although it can be a constant battle, by incorporating the use of insect repellents and breeding prevention (eliminating standing water), mosquitoes and the diseases they carry can be reduced, making the outdoors more accessible and enjoyable for everyone.

We all love to see daffodils showing their faces in spring. Customers come rushing in wanting to plant the bulbs of yellow flowers. But we are forced to tell them, "Sorry, it's too late." Fall is the time to plan ahead for spring bulb color.

Tulips, crocus and daffodils are the traditional standby bulbs. But for those that like the unusual, there are many spectacular varieties to choose from. They can be layered in containers or in your flower bed so that the colors just keep popping up. Crocus are the earliest blooming. Throw them into a flower bed and plant them where they land. Tulips are great in containers to show off your favorite pot in early spring. For a great show and color display, plant 8-10 daffodil bulbs in the same large hole.

Lilies, narcissus and hyacinths need to be planted in the fall as well. Don't forget that hyacinths and Oriental lilies are fragrant. Plant them where your nose as well as eyes can appreciate their beauty.

And last but not least, fall is the time to plant garlic. Planning ahead for a summer garlic harvest requires putting the bulbs in the ground in the fall. For a mild flavor try elephant garlic. The bulbs are larger but just as easy to grow as regular garlic.

Don't be disappointed when your neighbors have daffodils and crocus popping up in the yard next spring and you have bare ground. Plan and plant ahead! Choose your bulbs now and plant in the fall.

Grangetto’s Employees Experts in the industry
By Christina Macone-Greene (Special to the Village News)
Courtesy of the Fallbrook Village News
Thursday, August 7th, 2008.
Issue 32, Volume 12.

In the farm and garden industry it seems that new challenges, supplies and techniques are always sprouting up. Staying on top of the latest trends and innovations is Grangetto’s Farm and Garden Supply, well known for providing customers with up-to-date information and supplies.

For more than 50 years, Grangetto’s has made a positive impact in the farm and garden business, meeting the needs of customers in northern San Diego County. From farms and vast landscaping projects to residential backyards, this family-owned company has a tradition of excellence.

Read more of this article.

Brew of worm castings applied to Cardiff trees
By Adam Kaye, Staff Writer
Photography by Hayne Palmour IV, Staff Photographer
Article courtesy of North County Times

ENCINITAS ---- Three Torrey pines at the Cardiff-by-the-Sea Library were dying and within days of being removed, but a Cardiff man says he has revived them by enriching the soil with compost and a brew of worm poop.

Cardiff resident and businessman George Hahn says his brew of worm castings will enrich the soil to revive three dying Torrey pine trees at the Cardiff-by-the-Sea Library. Two of the trees towered above Hahn during a visit to the library last week.

Read more.

When life gave him lemons, John Northrop turned them into a business
Article courtesy of Valley Center Roadrunner

Growers of all kinds in Southern California know how difficult it is to  produce fruit in a hot, arid climate with minimal water.

John Northrop is no exception.

Northrop grows organic lemons on ten acres of grove in Valley Center, known as the Double J Ranch. Until recently, he says he was having just as much trouble as anyone with the local restrictions on agricultural water usage.

Read more.

Fall is one of the best blooming seasons for roses. As the weather cools, the plants get back in “flower machine” mode. Make sure you get the most bang for your buck in a few weeks, by giving them a little extra care now. Remove faded flowers, cutting back to at least the first leaf with five leaflets. Roses, such as floribundas and shrubs, which bloom in clusters, can be lightly sheared after blooms fade. Water regularly; at least once a week in most areas but more frequently in the hottest climates. Make sure you water deeply so the water penetrates 12 to 18 inches (you can check water penetration by probing the soil with a stiff wire or screwdriver. The probe should move easily through moist soil and be harder to push in dry soil). Replenish mulches to conserve water and reduce weeds.

Fertilizing and protecting roses from late season insects and diseases is also very important. You can easily feed and protect with Bayer Advanced™ All-In-One Rose & Flower Care Concentrate. No spraying is necessary. Just mix with water and pour around the plant base. One application fertilizes your roses to encourage fall bloom and protects plants from insects and diseases (including powdery mildew, black spot and rust) for up to 6 weeks. To protect against spider mites (and other insect pests), and cure and prevent disease, use Bayer Advanced™ 3-in-1 Insect, Disease & Mite Control Ready-To-Use. Always read and follow label instructions.

While you’re preparing your roses for a great late-season bloom, considering sprucing up you’re flower beds by planting complimentary fall-blooming plants. Ideal companion plants for roses include fall-blooming perennials, such as asters, mums, ornamental grasses, penstemons, salvias and cool-season annuals like pansies, violas and alyssum. Foliage plants, such as lamb's ears, artemisias, and dusty miller, as well as variegated sages and thymes, combine spectacularly with roses.

Article courtesy of Bayer Advanced

Wood borer cited in report as big culprit

By Mike Lee
UNION-TRIBUNE STAFF WRITER
August 15, 2008

A mysterious bug is killing oak trees by the thousands in the backcountry, according to a new report by the U.S. Forest Service.

High rates of tree deaths increase fire danger, raise the potential for heavy soil erosion, and reduce habitat for numerous birds and mammals.

The insect, Agrilus coxalisis, is a metallic-green, bullet-shaped wood borer that scientists previously had not linked to tree deaths in Southern California. The beetle is so rare that it doesn't have an accepted common name, and forest officials don't know how to stop its spread.

Read more.

Anaerobic composting is, aside from digging a pit or filling a bag, practically labor-free. It's also a good method for those who don't have room for a big compost heap or compost bin, or live in a community where such things are banned. After a time, the pit or bag can be emptied and will yield a fairly well-matured compost.

Burying waste in a pit is an easy way to recycle. It also permits the material to stay warmer in the winter and damper in the summer. Underground rotting lets bacteria, anaerobic fungi and worms change stinky waste into (eventually) sweet-smelling soil. Just dig pits about 12"-14" deep, dump the waste in, and cover with about 8"of soil. Don't plant food crops over the pit for a year or so.

If you have a small garden that is worked by hand, try burying the waste in long trenches. Food crops can eventually be made directly on top of the covered trench, but it is not wise to do this too soon (non-food plants can be planted almost immediately). Allow plenty of time for decomposition before planting food crops. Growing food in too-raw garbage can spread diseases to us. Root crops, especially, may pick up parasites which have not yet been destroyed by the anaerobic processes--and give them to us.

One of the best trenching methods involves rotating your trenches. Lay out your garden in wide rows, dividing each row into three narrow strips; one strip serves as a path (fallow soil), one as a mulching trench, and one for planting. Rotate every year for three years--in order: mulching trench to planting strip to fallow path. This gives you a safe time for the mulch to decompose and become safe to use for food crops.

Quick and Easy Garbage Bag Method

In the heat of summer, you can also use a black garbage bag. Fill it with about with one-third soil, and fill the rest with (vegetable) kitchen scraps and garden/lawn scraps. Add enough water to make mixture damp, but not soggy. Dampen the contents and mix thoroughly. Place in a warm, full-sun location (but protect it from animals - a repellent spray will be effective). Leave for about six weeks before opening. Warning--when you open the bag, hold your nose--anaerobic composting is a stinky process. Empty the contents of the bag in a corner of your backyard or leave the bag open, dig in some more soil and let the pile continue to work for a few days. Once the compost is exposed to oxygen, the odor soon goes away. You can then use it as a mulching compost or soil amendment (see above for cautions on food plants).

Composting is a great way to recycle, as well as feed your soil. Try it!

How often should I add mulch to my garden and how much should I use?

Answer:
Most types of mulch take a few years to break down and decompose. How much you use--and how often--depends on why you are using it.

• If you are just looking for aesthetics, maintain at least a 1" layer of mulch over your native soil.
• If you are also trying to suppress weed growth and want your soil to retain more moisture, we recommend maintaining a 2-3" layer of mulch around your plants.
• Always make sure to leave a little space around the stem base of bushes or tree trunks. This prevents rotting and allows your plants to get more oxygen.

When the soil under a lawn becomes compacted from foot traffic or heavy equipment, it loses its springy texture and becomes hard as a rock. Water puddles or runs off, lack of air to the roots causes the turf to deteriorate in appearance and vigor; and the lawn often develops thin or bare patches. The best time to correct this condition is early-mid spring or in the fall. Then follow these simple steps:

• Mow the lawn, then make holes in the sod by running a rented aeration machine over it. Or do the job by hand with a aerating tool made for the purpose. Note: Make sure and use a coring tool that actually leaves behind soil plugs.
• Do not rake up the plugs. They contain beneficial organisms that actually feed on the thatch layer controlling helping to reduce its buildup.
• Spread granulated gypsum according to package directions.
• Apply a complete lawn fertilizer.
• Cover with ¼ inch of organic top dressing.
• When the soil or thatch is hydrophobic (so dry it sheds water), apply a liquid soil penetrant.
• Follow up by watering deeply.

DAYLILY
Daylilies are easy-growing, long-blooming flowering perennials that are a mainstay in many gardens. Daylilies form clumps of strappy green leaves that arch from a center fan. From spring on, two or more (depending on the variety) lily-shaped flowers form at the tips of stalks that rise above the leaves. The topmost flower opens first, then those below in sequence, but only for a day each. Plants may make several stalks, so the overall effect is lots of flowers over a long period of time. Because daylilies are relatively easy to hybridize, there are countless hybrids available- tall, short, different flower colors, those that bloom in spring and rebloom in late summer into fall, those that go dormant in winter, and those that are evergreen (depending on your zone).

This information is from Nan Sterman's book California Gardener's Guide volume II published by Cool Springs Press.